Ochsenzunge, Ochsenmaulsalat, Ochsenschlund gebacken, Kuttelflecke, Rindsnieren, Hirnpofesen, Briesragout, Gekröse, Bruckfleisch.
Alles Gerichte, die ein gewisses Erschrecken oder Abwehr dieser Köstlichkeiten auslösen. Wenn ich an meine Kindheit denke, sehe ich meine Großmutter in der Küche stehen und in einer Schüssel schwamm im Wasser ein Kalbshirn. Mir wurde erklärt, das muss gewässert, dann gehäutet, dann paniert und in Butter herausgebacken werden. Mir war nicht gerade wohl, aber interessiert an diesen Varianten der Kochkunst meiner Großmutter war ich schon. Am Mittagstisch aß die Familie genüsslich ihr Hirn mit Blattsalat. Es schmeckte, weiterhin wurde ich unterrichtet, dass dieses Essen auch gesund sei. Na ja, ich aß es ja, aber was soll an so einer weißen, schaumigen, panierten Masse gesund sein? Vielleicht würde sich dadurch mein Großhirn vergrößern, und ich beim nächsten Mathetest nicht wieder eine 5 kassieren! So weigerte ich mich nicht und aß, was da so alles auf dem Teller kam. Es war ja alles gesund und sollte mir gut tun. Es war bestimmt gesund, es war aber auch mal etwas anderes auf dem Küchenteller, nicht nur das ewige Braterl, sondern auch ein billiges Essen, das nicht jeder kochen konnte. So wurde ich Spezialist in dieser Kochkunst, war aber trotzdem nicht sonderlich begeistert, denn selbstverständlich wurde ich auch an den Küchentisch gestellt und musste dann so manche Aufgaben übernehmen, die in meinen zarten Alter, mit meinen sensiblen Innenleben kämpften. Rinderzunge in Madeirasoße, wie das schon klang, fürstlich in dieser kleinen Küche. Diesen Süßwein aus Madeira, gab es kaum zu kaufen, und wenn er verwendet wurde, war es ein Ersatz des Originals, und da lag die Betonung auf ‚Ersatz‘ .
Viele Jahre später, verweilte ich auf dieser Insel und trank Madeira, was für ein Unterschied………
Nun gut, was will ich mit diesem Erinnerungsbild von meiner Kindheit bewirken. Jedes Mal beim Schlachten, sehe ich wie all diese guten Teile des Rindes verschwinden im Hundefutter. Schade, denn es sind Köstlichkeiten, und keine Ekelpakete. Unser Hochholzer Bauer musste auch über all diese Hürden steigen, denn was ist der Unterschied zwischen einer Zunge in Madeirasoße und dem Steak in Senfsoße, all diese Spezialitäten kommen immerhin von der ein und der selben Kuh. Also wo kommt das her?
Selber weiß ich das auch nicht, also bleibt die Frage im Raum, und nun gebe ich Euch ein Rezept von Ochsenzunge in echter Madeirasoße mit.
Gutes Gelingen.
Zutaten:
eine Ochsen oder Rinderzunge, gepökelt oder roh, Suppengrün, Zitronenschale etwas Knoblauch, Lorbeerblatt und Wacholderbeere, etwas Zitronensaft, Salz und Pfeffer etwas Zucker.
Zunge ins heiße Wasser mit den Zutaten geben, kochen bis das Züngerl weich ist. Nach dem Abkühlen, häuten, das ist ganz einfach, denn sie lässt sich leicht entfernen, in Scheiben schneiden, warm stellen. Nun zu der Madeirasoße. Etwas Mehl mit Butter in der Pfanne braun rösten, mit der Zungenbrühe ablöschen. Fein geschnittene Schalotten zugeben, einige Champignons und Petersilie beigeben und leicht einkochen lassen. Mit Madeira aufgießen, mit Salz und Pfeffer, etwas Zucker abschmecken. Dazu gibt es Salzkartoffel und einen schönen Blattsalat. Guten Appetit.
Schöne Tage im April, der Mai ist nicht weit, und das nächste Rezept auch. Servus.
Walter und Marliese Heinzmann
Hochholz 1
83556 Griesstätt
Tele: 08038 756
www.Hochholz.de
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